a long one, better for another time and a few beers. However, the story of Kim learning to surf is the one for today, dear readers.
to rest instead. Ironically, his dreams of cold water surfing put on ice for a while.
came and went (I finished 5th, which isn’t bad for an ex-pro bodyboarder riding a surfboard) and I had always planned to stay and experience more of
the place before heading back home to the south of Sweden. There were only a handful of us remaining after all of the competitors had left. Kim, meanwhile,
was staying in his tent out by the north forest.
the beach and sharing stories as the northern lights danced far above us. During one of these times, Kim’s story was revealed and I decided to offer
that some slabbing waves might be found in the area. With conditions this nice yet lacking any real punch, the idea of bodysurfing seemed like a novel
one instead. I mean, at least I would be able to say to my kids one day that I bodysurfed in the Arctic Circle. I was keen to strap on my fins and
catch a few rollers and I offered to introduce Kim to surfing from the best starting point I could think of – with the wave, bodysurfing.
gin-clear, with the swell possessing enough energy to drag us along as they slowly approached the sandbar.
so years ago. In the frigid waters of Unstad, as we waited for the next swells to carry us away, I asked Kim if there was a Norse god of the sea who
we might be able to request a few decent waves from. He told me that
Rán was the Goddess of the Sea and that he didn’t know so much about her. I later did some research myself and read that she was known to cast her
net and capture unsuspecting men in the waters.